The Battle of Celebrity Fashion Brands

Atelier Jolie by Angela Jolie and Khy by Kylie Jenner are two new celebrity brands with distinct approaches. Jolie foregrounds community and a less-is-more approach, while Kylie capitalizes on her celebrity status and hype culture. Both are taking their first steps into the foray of fashion.

Actress Angelina Jolie launched a fashion-focused business venture, Atelier Jolie, in 2023 with a debut collection in collaboration with Chloe, a B-Corp company. She is carving a niche as an alternative to fast fashion with made-to-order garments and seasonal collections prioritizing community engagement and environmental sustainability. The brand seeks to democratize the fashion industry by providing consumers access to a global network of tailors, pattern makers, emerging designers, and artisans. Additionally, Atelier Jolie offers apprenticeship opportunities to refugees and other underprivileged groups. The first location popped up in downtown New York in Basquiat's former home. While its boutique operates by appointment, an on-site cafe is open to everyone, and an online community is in the works to reach the rest of the world.

Khy intends to revolutionize the modern wardrobe with its curated collection that blends luxury, everyday style, and a touch of Kylie's celebrity status. The brand has designer affiliations with Namilia, a Belgian design company that quickly rose to relevancy, to secure design integrity for Khy. As a digital-first brand, Khy is leveraging campaigns and influencers to launch each collection, focusing on storytelling and social proof rather than experiential marketing strategies. Their release aligns with fast fashion's frequent 'drops,' aiming to sell the lifestyle of the brand's face - Kylie. Despite neglecting sustainability objectives, the brand hopes to position itself as a go-to source for everyday luxury fashion at an affordable price.

Fashion Trends Are Dead

Fashion trends are a byproduct of culture and consumerism. They come in the form of shapes and sizes, colors and patterns, and are often dictated by the heads of fashion houses. Often attributed to specific subcultures or a certain period of time, trends represent shifts in taste preferences, creative expressions, and societal values. The widespread acceptance, or scarcity, showcases the supernatural significance of trends, and their ability to mean different things to different people proves their contextual nature.

In the 1850s, fashion trends were standardized by a couturier named Charles Frederick Worth. Charles Frederick Worth is often regarded as the father of haute couture. In 1858, he founded the first haute couture fashion house, House of Worth, in Paris. He was a prominent designer in the 19th century and is accredited for revolutionizing the fashion industry by sewing labels into his garments, presenting collections on live models, and elevating the status of fashion designers.

The fashion industry today is not so different from Worth’s initial outset with seasonal collections, creating fertile grounds for trends to take root and grow. Fashion collections moved from four annually to once a week in some cases. Worth didn’t have the resources and machinery to produce at such a large scale. Fast fashion has taken Worth’s initial process and cut down the time to make more clothes that are trendy and affordable.

Fashion trends are an industry lifeline. Trends shift consumer’s attention from one product to the next, creating urgency and demand. Instead of designing for a muse or community, fashion brands are designing to capture as many people as possible to increase their bottle line year after year. The nature of trends is to change to enable discovery and remain relevant in today’s fast-paced consumerism.

Trends are cyclical. They are known to repeat throughout history. Y2K (stands for Year 2000s) is an example of a fashion trend that reemerged in 2021. With substantial evidence that it had fallen out of favor amongst the general population in favor, Gen Z consumers adopted similar styles for Y2K nostalgia and a desire for uniqueness.

Social media proliferates trends with influencer and digital campaigns. Models and influencers project aspirational lives online to elevate their status, which plays into consumers’ desires and insecurities, creating a sense of FOMO (fear of missing out). Trends are in constant interaction with status signaling and class associations, contingent on their origins and who adopts them. Paradoxically, social media shortens the lifespan of a trend’s significance. The longer a trend lives on in high visibility, the more it becomes ubiquitous, losing its significant qualities in exchange for mass market appeal. For example, brands like Bottega Veneta erased their social media presence to preserve their exclusivity.

In 2020, the media had a core frenzy. From normcore to cottage-core to Barbiecore, and the list continues. Core is how consumers are describing fashion trends today. Core trends go beyond frivolous, fast-moving fashion trends to bring people with similar interests together. They represent entire ecosystems of products, attitudes, and behaviors. They each have their own set of guidelines to ensure authenticity and connection, making it more meaningful for the in-group, and trivial or isolating to outsiders.

Trends highlight the relationship between individuality and belonging, and following trends is how consumers create an identity. Whether the identity is unique or not, it’s a form of communicating values externally. Exploring a change in identity often comes with a shift in style, and trends help enable discovery on a more intimate level.

When consumers constantly follow trends, their sense of self is always changing. Their identity is determined by extrinsic forces instead of intrinsically determining what’s on brand for the individual. Some consumers, like influencers, find being on-trend authentic to their personality and status, whether they’re conscious of these decisions.

Ultimately, trends are designed to give consumers confidence. They allow for personal expression, creativity, and identity development. With trends as core beliefs, they create a deeper self-awareness and confidence, teaching consumers to appreciate themselves and not rest on external approval.

The Parable of the Material Revolution

art by Daniel Obasi

In a world not unlike our own existed a delicate dance between two interconnected entities—Society and Nature. With its insatiable appetite for progress, Society had long relied on Nature for materials to fuel its ever-growing needs. Once abundant and generous, Nature began to falter under the weight of Society's demands. Forests fell, rivers diverted, and skies darkened by the smoke of the Industrial and Tech Revolution. As the years passed, the relationship between Society and Nature was like a train wreck waiting to happen. Rivers ran dry, the air became thick with pollution, and the once vibrant ecosystems withered away. It was a time of hardship, a time when the consequences of a one-sided relationship became impossible to ignore.

Society found itself at a crossroads. Evolve or be wiped out.

The materials that once flowed freely were now dwindling, and a looming shortage threatened to bring about a crisis of unparalleled proportions. In the face of this adversity, a realization dawned upon a group of visionaries within Society—a realization that the very source of their prosperity was on the verge of collapse. Driven by the situation's urgency, materialists, a group of forward-thinking individuals, set out on a quest to mend the broken relationship with Nature. Materialists began reevaluating their priorities, learning how to develop materials to reset the delicate balance of the natural world. They delved into the realms of science, innovation, and sustainable living, seeking a way to harmonize progress with environmental responsibility.

After years of research and experimentation, breakthroughs emerged. Tencel, a fiber made from wood pulp, has a sustainable production process and can break down naturally. The soft, breathable, and absorbent fiber involves a closed-loop process, where the solvents and chemicals used to break down the wood pulp are recycled and reused, minimizing environmental impact. Tencel fibers are known for their smooth surface, which gives fabrics a soft feel. They also have good moisture-wicking properties, making them comfortable to wear. Additionally, Tencel is often blended with other fibers like cotton or polyester to enhance certain characteristics of the resulting fabric.

Piñatex, a byproduct of the pineapple industry, is a cruelty-free option for eco-friendly leather. It utilizes a waste product that would otherwise be discarded, reducing the impact associated with traditional agricultural waste. The extracted fibers undergo a process of cleaning and degumming to remove impurities, and the cleaned fibers are then mixed with a corn-based polylactic acid (PLA) to create a non-woven mesh.

Its durable qualities make it suitable for various applications in fashion, including bags and shoes. The production process of Piñatex involves fewer harsh chemicals, compared to some other synthetic materials, and involves partnerships with farming communities where pineapples are grown, providing additional income streams for local farmers and communities.

Some companies are experimenting with mycelium, the root structure of fungi, to create a leather-like, biodegradable material. The process of creating mushroom leather involves growing the mycelium on a substrate in a controlled environment. The harvested mycelium is then processed through tanning and finishing methods to develop a material with properties similar to traditional leather. What's fun about growing mycelium leather is manipulating the growth conditions to achieve specific textures and characteristics, allowing for customization, which is vital to the slow fashion movement.

These discoveries sparked a global revolution. Societal norms shifted, legislations were enacted to protect the planet, and global networks reorganized to prioritize the proliferation of Society and methods of fabricating materials that not only ceased to exploit Nature, but actively replenished and nurtured it. The newfound materials were derived from renewable sources, and the production process left a positive environmental impact behind. The once-destructive relationship transformed into a partnership of mutual benefit, and the revolution became a beacon of hope in a world accustomed to environmental despair.

At the end of the parable, the hardship that had befallen Society became the catalyst for change—a change that not only saved them from their destructive tendencies, but also rekindled the harmony between Society and Nature. Together, they learned that actual progress could only be achieved when it was built on the foundation of respect and reciprocity. The story of the material revolution became a parable for future generations, a testament to the resilience of the human spirit, and the boundless capacity for transformation when faced with adversity.

A material revolution is happening in Earth's fashion industry. It may be challenging to consider ourselves in the midst becasue it's happening at a snail's pace, and fast fashion is consistently outpacing and stealing publicity from positive progress. Talks of a material revolution began around 2010, but controversy sells and holds us hostage to the old system. A movement happens when there is wide adoption, fusing into the cultural zeitgeist earnestly, and the industry has yet to reach that phase. It'll take years to undo the damage inflicted on our planet. My future prediction is that the discarded clothes in the landfills will be seen less as trash and more as an untapped goldmine for brands to reclaim and transform into something new. Chew on that until next time.

Adaptive Clothing Urges Sustainable Fashion

Anrealage unveils colour-changing collection at Paris Fashion Week Fall 2023

People, and the context they live in are fluid, and garments, by and large, aren’t designed to adapt to people where they are at each transition. Brands aren’t invested in adaptive clothing for fear consumers won’t return to buy the latest trend they say the people need. The truth is who people are and what they want to achieve with their style can change daily, sometimes in minutes.

They need clothes that adapt to their lifestyle. In other words, clothes that withstand every evolution of their identity. Aka, the staple. The staple garment maintains a status of desire and utility throughout one’s style development. I can't help but think about how staples have been marketed as basic and static garments. Although staples are often described as simple, complementary garments that can play off other garments seamlessly without clashing, the definition is context-dependent. Whether those transitions are conscious or consequential, people should have access to clothes that adapt to the changes they go through. What they need is an adaptive wardrobe.

Adaptive clothing is a genre of fashion that is easily altered.

If you live in New York City, managing a wardrobe from season to season can be cumbersome because space is limited. Buying staples that transition from season to season would be a huge help instead of purchasing staples for every season. Brands could provide liners that fit snugly under light jackets or even t-shirts, which are easy to remove come summer in the city. This eliminates the necessity of people rotating their closets. Personally, I dread this every year.

Another common case is the growth people experience from childhood to adulthood. They require longer or bigger clothes to face the formidable challenge of fitting in and defining their style. Practically, clothes that are stretchy or easy to lengthen could solve the ongoing need to buy new clothes every year. Also, imagine if someone wanted to push the boundaries with an asymmetrical outfit, and a sleeve or pant leg could be easily removed to make the look unique.

Sizes and shapes may be harder to design, but there’s so much fun to be had with colors as preferences change throughout someone’s life. A solution we already have, and hardly talk about, are reversible clothes. From a value perspective, you save money and space in your closet when you have two garments in one. Advances in technology now allow brands to create clothes that react to temperatures. This is an area that is popularized by high-end or niche brands. Waiting for this to catch on might take a while, but the application is relevant. It makes fashion more exciting, something that sustainability is largely lacking.

I hope to get more people to see the potential benefits of adaptive clothing. These garments would give people more freedom to change their style on a whim with garments they already have in their closet—reducing the number of clothes people have to own and increasing the likelihood of things they own evolving with them over time. Sustainable fashion continues to have this reputation for being bland or boring, but brands should consider someone’s evolution as a creative restraint to create styles that last.

Trashion: Shoes Made from Upcycled Plastic and Other Waste Materials

Plastic Soul by Rose In Good Faith

I would have never guessed that shoes made from sex toys could make headlines. When I learned about Rose In Good Faith and what they accomplished in 2022 with their sex-positive footwear, I had to swallow my doubt and skepticism. The 'Stop Fucking Mother Nature' campaign turned heads with its clever recycling approach and creative marketing. The brand was bold enough to compare the shoe to some of the most sought-after sneakers in the market. In an attempt to protect mother nature, it took scientists two years to develop the sexy shoe and test its functionality with consumers. It must have been worth the wait.

The shoe made from recycled material turns taboo products into a mode for comfortable movement and foot protection. It overtly subverts our morals while raising awareness for environmental preservation. This genius-level innovation and marketing is one way to get consumers' attention. Rose In Good Faith makes transparency sexy. It's a story worth telling someone, bringing the world closer to circularity. I'm not suggesting brands embellish their sustainability efforts, but I am begging them to find appropriate ways to encourage circularity. 

Award-winning, cutting edge design.

On Running takes a more practical approach to circularity. Their sustainable action is baked into a premium membership model that allows members to run, recycle and repeat. The Cloudneo, a lightweight, fully recyclable running shoe, is made from castor beans. On Running proves that sustainability does not sacrifice high performance. For runners, there is nothing like a shoe that makes you feel like you can dig deeper and go further. It dispels the misconception that products made from recycled material come with trade-offs. 

On Running does an excellent job of creating a supply of running shoes for avid runners through circularity. Is there an opportunity to talk to the sneakerhead audience in this way?

Something incredibly novel and clever about marketing turns us from consumers to deeply invest followers. Sneakerheads are a perfect example of a cohort who would enjoy collecting hard-to-find footwear. They might find shoes made from orange skins or old car seats more compelling than the same sneaker dropped in a new colorway. What we're talking about is reframing the definition of waste. Humans produce more than 34 billion pounds of post-consumer textile waste annually. 

I love the saying, "One man's trash is another man's treasure." One of my favorite solutions to our waste problem is through partnerships. Partnerships with brands outside the industry are a massive opportunity to make a positive impact and create desirability. Shoe companies should start as soon as possible to forge unique alliances that are mutually beneficial for the brands and the ecosystems they operate within. Brands like Asics have already begun pushing the boundaries of collaboration. They debuted the first sneaker made using recycled airbags and steering wheels—a project done in partnership with a member of the Toyota Group.

In conclusion, our things aren't done when we are done with them. Waste could be used more often in creating products we use daily, and those opportunities might be found in unexpected places. If brands can look outside the bounds of their industry, there might be partnerships that make more sense to create brand loyalty and sustain a healthy business.

Photography by Rose In Good Faith